Royal Meander Tiara with Diamonds of Grand Duchess Viktoria Melitta

Royal Meander Tiara with Diamonds of Grand Duchess Viktoria Melitta
This tiara was formerly owned by Princess Victoria Melitta of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha , married first to the Grand Duke of Hesse and second to Grand Duke Kirill, her great love. He gave her this meander-shaped tiara made of diamonds and platinum.
After the collapse of the Imperial Russian Empire, Victoria Feodorovna’s jewels were her only possessions, so she sold her jewelry little by little to survive with her family, including this tiara.
Her sister, Queen Marie of Romania, supported her with jewelry purchases and bought the piece from her to give to her future daughter-in-law, Princess Helen of Greece, pictured above on the left, who had already worn it as a bride at her wedding in 1921.
After the death of his grandfather Ferdinand (1927), their five-year-old son, King Michael I (Romanian: Mihai I), formally ascended the Romanian throne for the first time, as Crown Prince Carol had been forced to renounce the right of succession in favor of his son in 1926 due to his lifestyle. Prince Nicolaus, Carol’s younger brother and Michael’s uncle, led the government during this time.
Many important jewels have been sold over the years, but this tiara remained in the family’s possession and was passed down through the Romanian royal family to the next Queen Anne of Romania. Queen Anne also wore the jewel at her wedding to Queen Mother Helen’s son.
Princess Anne of Bourbon-Parma was born in Paris on September 18, 1923. She is the only daughter of her parents, Prince Renato of Bourbon-Parma and Margaret of Denmark. As a member of the royal house of Bourbon-Parma, she attended the wedding of Elizabeth, heir to the English throne, and Prince Philip of Greece in London in November 1947. There she met the young King Michael I of Romania.
Their daughters, Princesses Marie and Margarita, use the family’s showpiece for representational purposes and as a bridal ti
ara.

Chocolate of the Month Club Club

Diamond Necklace of Marie Louise 1791 – 1847| Empress of France

Napoléon Bonaparte presented the diamonds now known as the Napoleon Necklace to his second wife, Marie-Louise of Austria, Empress of France, as a gift to celebrate the birth of their son, Napoléon François Joseph Charles, the King of Rome (later the Duke of Reichstadt), in 1811.

The history of this jewel is well documented, and the brief summary presented here is based on an account by Bratter (1971) and unpublished research conducted in the National Archives of France by Marvin C.Ross. Mr. Ross was employed by American socialite Marjorie Merriweather Post, who donated the necklace to the Smithsonian Institution in 1962 (Post,1997), and his notes are currently stored at the Hillwood Museum in Washington, DC (with copies at the Smithsonian).


The necklace was assembled in Paris by the firm of Nitot and Sons. Jeweler Ernst Paltscho (1811), who examined it at the time, estimated its value at 376,275 French francs. This was an enormous sum of money, approximately equal to the Empress’s regular household budget for an entire year. Several portraits were subsequently painted of Marie-Louise wearing the necklace.


When Napoléon was exiled to Saint Helena in 1815, Marie-Louise returned to Austria with her personal jewels, including the diamond necklace. After her death in 1847, the necklace passed to her cousin, Archduchess Sophie, who removed two diamonds from the necklace in order to shorten it and put them into earrings (the current whereabouts of these earrings is unknown).

Following the Archduchess’s death in 1872, the necklace was inherited by her three surviving sons, one of whom, Charles Louis, later acquired the interests of his two brothers. Charles Louis’s third wife, Maria Theresa, inherited the Napoleon Necklace upon his death in 1914. One of the more unusual episodes in the necklace’s history took place in 1929, when Archduchess Maria Theresa sent the jewel to the United States to be sold.

The agents she chose represented themselves as “Colonel Townsend,” who had allegedly
served in the British Secret Service, and his wife “Princess Baronti,” a novelist (Nicolet, 1930; Bratter, 1971). These representations were false, and in fact the couple’s true identities have never been firmed.
Maria Theresa was seeking $450,000 for the necklace, but after the stock market crash in
October of that year, the Townsends realized that a sale for this sum was impossible. They enlisted the assistance of Archduke Leopold of Hapsburg, Maria Theresa’s grandnephew, to authenticate the necklace to prospective buyers and to provide credibility to the story that it was being offered at the bargain price of $100,000 because Maria Theresa was desperately in need of money.

The Townsends negotiated deals to sell the necklace, first to New York jeweler Harry Winston and then to one Harry Berenson of Boston, but both backed out. David Michel, a New York diamond dealer, finally bought it for $60,000.
The Townsends sent $7,270 to Maria Theresa and kept the balance of $52,730 to cover their “expenses related to the sale,” which included a reported $20,000 for Leopold. Prior to the sale, however, Maria Theresa had revoked the Townsends’ authority to sell the necklace and sent an emissary to New York to retrieve the diamonds. The affair ultimately went to the courts. In the end, the necklace was returned to Maria Theresa and Leopold went to jail, while the Townsends fled the authorities and dropped out of sight.


In 1948, the Hapsburg family sold the necklace to Paul-Louis Weiller, a Paris industrialist and patron of the arts. Harry Winston acquired the necklace in 1960 and sold it to Marjorie Merriweather Post. In 1962, she gave the necklace in its original case (figure3) to the Smithsonian Institution. The necklace is currently on exhibit in the Natural History Museum’s National Gem and Mineral Collection Gallery.
The Napoleon Necklace contains 234 colorless to near-colorless diamonds set in silver and gold (see pic); the diamonds total approximately 263 carats, with the largest stone weighing about 10.4 ct.
The piece consists of 28 old mine–cut diamonds, from which are suspended a fringe of nine pendeloques (five pear shapes—some with rounded points—alternating with four ovals) and 10 briolettes.

Above each pear shape is mounted a small brilliant, while the four ovals are attached to motifs decorated with 23 smaller diamonds (figure 4, left). Each of the 10 briolette mountings is set with 12 rose-cut diamonds (figure 4, right).
In his description of the necklace, Paltscho(1811) detailed each stone by cut, weight, and price.
The origins of the diamonds were not noted, but in 1811 the only significant diamond sources were
India and Brazil. Paltscho does not describe theFigure 1.


Composed of 234 diamonds weighing about 263 carats (width of the
necklace as shown is about 20 cm), and is currently on exhibit at the National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution, in Washington.
The quality of the stones, and, as far as its known, they have never been removed from their mountings.
GIA studied 101 of the 234 diamonds in the necklace: the 52 larger diamonds (~2.5–10.4 ct) and a selection of the others.
They used a Meiji binocular microscope with attached polarizers to examine surface and near-surface features.
Could not conduct a detailed study of the diamonds’interiors because the stones could not be removed from the historic and fragile mounting. The measured infrared spectra using a Bio-Rad Excalibur Series Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer (4 cm–1 resolution)fitted with a UMA-500 microscope. The microscope made it possible to direct the IR beam through the table and large culet of the old mine–cut diamonds. We observed the ultraviolet (UV) luminescence
of all 234 diamonds using a Super Bright longand short-wave UV lamp (365 and 254 nm respectively).
UV luminescence descriptions for the 52 larger diamonds are given in a table available in the G&G
Data Depository (www.gia.edu/gemsandgemology).

After almost two centuries, the necklace is in generally good condition. Several solder joints have been repaired, and a few of the larger diamonds show minor chips. There are obvious
crystalline inclusions in some of the diamonds; for the most part, these appear to be sulfide crystals
with associated disc-shaped tension halos (Richardson et al., 2004).
Luminescence reactions of the 52 larger diamonds to UV radiation (figure 5) fell into three groups. The six diamonds in the first group were inert to both long- and short-wave UV. The seven
diamonds in the second group displayed pinkish orange fluorescence that was more intense to shortwave than long-wave. The strength of the shortwave UV luminescence ranged from weak to strong, depending on the diamond. No phosphorescence was observed from the diamonds in the second group.
The third and largest group (39 diamonds)Figure 2. exhibited blue fluorescence that was stronger for long-wave (medium to very strong) than for shortwave (very weak to strong) UV. Diamonds in this group that showed strong fluorescence also exhibited strong whitish phosphorescence (again, see the table in the G&G Data Depository for complete descriptions).
The diamond types of the 52 larger diamonds, as determined from the IR spectra, are indicated in figure5.
Thirteen diamonds are type IIa (i.e., without nitrogen bands visible in their IR spectra; Fritsch and
Scarratt, 1992); the remainder are type Ia diamonds with both A and B nitrogen aggregates (IaAB). Thesetype Ia diamonds are similar to one another in that all contain small-to-moderate amounts of hydrogen, showed the Raman absorption line, and had (in most cases) high levels of platelets (e.g., figure 6, left).

The absorption band at 1430 cm–1, which is nitrogen Figure 5. When the Napoleon Necklace is exposed to UV radiation (here, combined long- and short-wave UV), a variety of responses—pinkish orange, blue, or inert—can be observed. The diamond types, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, are labeled for the 52 larger stones;label colors correspond to the type of fluorescence: pink for pinkish orange, white for blue, and gray for inert.

At left is a detail of one of the necklace’s four oval pendeloques
(1.5 cm; diamond no. 40 in the G&G Data Depository table), which is set with 23 smaller
diamonds. The mountings for the briolettes (right, width 1 cm; diamond no. 37) are set with 12 rose cuts (some are very small and not visible in this photo).
(and correlates to N3 in type Ia diamonds; Zaitsev, 2001) was observed in the spectra of 19 of
the 39 larger IaAB diamonds and in eight of the 49 smaller ones.


Comparison of luminescence behavior with diamond type reveals that type IIa diamonds were in
the first and second fluorescence groups and showed either no fluorescence or pinkish orange fluorescence.
The type Ia diamonds were in the third group of 39 stones that showed blue fluorescence.
Interestingly, all of the larger type Ia diamonds in the necklace fluoresced (though very weakly in
some cases), which is a significant departure from the overall average of 35% for colorless diamonds as reported by Moses et al. (1997).
It is also noteworthy that 13 of the 52 larger diamondsin the necklace are type IIa (again, see figure 5, and, e.g., figure 6, right); this includes seven of the nine large pendeloques, five of the old-mine cuts, and one of the briolettes. It appears that 200 years ago, as today, the finest large colorless diamonds were often type IIa (e.g., King and Shigley, 2003).
Pinkish orange–fluorescing type IIa diamonds are commonly called Golconda diamonds (Scarratt,
1987; Fritsch, 1998), in reference to the historic trading area in India, a possible source for these stones.
Golconda diamonds typically are described as having a faint-to-light pink color. However, no pink hue was evident in the type IIa diamonds in the Napoleon Necklace (as observed in the setting). This is consistent with observations on the larger (20.34ct) diamond in the Marie Antoinette earrings (also in the Smithsonian National Gem Collection), which Fryer and Koivula (1986) described as colorless to near colorless (again, as observed in the setting) and
is another type IIa diamond exhibiting pinkish orange fluorescence. (Note that Fryer and Koivula also reported blue fluorescence for this stone; however, our examination—conducted with the diamond unmounted—showed a pinkish orange reaction to short-wave UV.) The 34 ct Little Sancy, yet another historic colorless diamond, exhibits the same properties (E. Fritsch, pers. comm., 2007).
When examined between crossed polarizers, all the type IIa diamonds showed banded and crosshatched extinction patterns with first-order interference colors of gray to blue. This feature, called “tatami graining,” is typical of type IIa diamond (Smith et al., 2000).

Conclusion of the GIA describiton about the necklace:. Not only is the Napoleon Necklace a
historic icon, but it also contains gemologically notable diamonds. Infrared spectroscopy indicated
that 13 of the 52 larger diamonds are the relatively rare type IIa and are colorless to near colorless with good clarity, consistent with the jewel’s imperial pedigree. Apparently, the standards used 200 years ago to select the finest diamonds are similar to those still used today. The necklace is equally spectacular under an ultraviolet lamp, and the diamonds’ luminescence behavior correlates to their diamond type. Furthermore, it seems that colorless Figure 6. Typical infrared spectra of diamonds from the Napoleon Necklace are shown here for a type IaAB diamond (left, diamond no. 2), which shows the Raman line and absorption bands arising from the presence of
A and B aggregates, platelets, and hydrogen; and for a type IIa diamond, which shows only the intrinsic absorption of diamond (right, diamond no. 37).


or near-colorless type IIa diamonds showing a pinkish orange fluorescence are more common than previously thought. Indeed, those characteristics were usually associated with pink Golconda diamonds, but the diamonds examined here show no obvious bodycolor.
The Napoleon Necklace is one of the most spectacular jewelry pieces of its period. With this report, it joins other items in the Smithsonian’s National Gem Collection for which gemological data have been preserved in the literature.


Shown here is the original case for the Napoleon Necklace (21.8 cm in diameter), made in
Paris by Gruel (see inset). It is also part of the Smithsonian National Gem Collection.

Chocolate of the Month Club Club

Graff Ruby Diamond Ring

White gold ring by Graff. The main stone is a 5.56ct cushion-cut Mozambican ruby, set with 2 heart-shaped diamonds and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds.

An intense passion for diamonds has been the driving force in Laurence Graff’s life since he first sat, over 60 years ago, at a jeweller’s bench in Hatton Garden, London’s jewellery quarter. His story of metamorphosis is very similar to that of a diamond – transformed from raw, rough carbon into a precious, ravishingly refined gem. ‘I have always been fascinated by diamonds,’ he says; ‘I remember looking at them, studying them closely to understand their purity, and the way they had been cut. It was an inherent feeling that has turned in to a lifelong passion.’

Charlize Theron wears a shimmering Boucheron choker and earrings

Charlize Theron wears a shimmering Boucheron choker and earrings.

Charlize Theron in Boucheron
Swathed in shimmering silk, Charlize Theron was a certified silver siren on the red carpet, topping her dazzling dress with stacks and stacks of sparkling diamonds and white gold by Boucheron – including the ‘Quatre Radiant Edition’ pendant earrings, choker, necklace and bracelet.

Vintage 2.00 ct. t.w. Diamond Filigree Bangle Bracelet in 14kt White Gold

Vintage 2.00 ct. t.w. Diamond Filigree Bangle Bracelet in 14kt White Gold. 7″ C. 1950. Joining our Estate collection, a stunning showpiece you can flaunt right from your wrist! This Retro-era bangle bracelet presents a strip of gorgeous filigree detailing iced with 2.00 ct. t.w. Old European-cut diamonds. Crafted in 14kt white gold. Graduates from 5/16″ to 5/8″ wide. Hinged with a figure 8 safety. Box clasp, diamond filigree bangle bracelet.

Greville Emerald Kokoshnik

Greville Emerald Kokoshnik. Today, we’ve got a rundown of the tiara’s fascinating journey from Boucheron to the royal vaults.

We now know that the diamond and emerald tiara was one of at least two diadems stashed in a black tin trunk that was delivered to Buckingham Palace in 1943. The trunk contained the jewels of the late Dame Margaret Greville, who had decided to bequeath the collection to her friend, Queen Elizabeth (the Queen Mother). Elizabeth adopted the other tiara from the bequest, the Greville Tiara, as one of her signature pieces, but for reasons unknown, she never wore the emerald kokoshnik in public.

It’s possible that kokoshniks simply weren’t the Queen Mum’s cup of tea. She had another kokoshnik tiara in her collection, the Persian Turquoise Tiara, altered so that it no longer had the typical halo shape of the style. She also revised the top line of the Greville Tiara so that it no longer resembled a traditional kokoshnik. It’s also possible, of course, that Elizabeth did wear the tiara privately, but we have no textual or photographic evidence of that. All we know for sure is that the tiara was deposited in her royal jewelry collection in 1943 and stayed there until her death in 2002. At that point, the jewel was inherited by her daughter, the present Queen, who has also never worn it in public.

There are, however, references available that demonstrate that Mrs. Greville wore the tiara herself after she acquired it in the years after World War I. In The Maggie Greville Story, Pam Burbidge cites several newspaper articles from the 1930s featuring mentions of Maggie wearing “her empire-shaped tiara of diamonds and emeralds.” One of those tiara appearances reportedly took place during the celebrations of the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Kent in 1934. Burbidge also notes that a photograph of Maggie wearing the tiara, taken at a concert at the Austrian Legation in London in 1937, has also been located in a German archive.

The tiara is an exquisite example of early ’20s Art Deco design. The smooth diamond and platinum lines of the kokoshnik are interrupted by scalloped sections that echo the round cabochon shape of the piece’s central emerald cluster. That emerald measures at a whopping 93.70 carats. Six more (faceted) emeralds are set at regular intervals on each side of the tiara, which tapers pleasantly as it nearly encircles the wearer’s head, for a total of thirteen emeralds in the piece.

We know for certain that the tiara was made in Paris by Boucheron, but exactly when it was constructed appears to be a matter of debate. The Royal Collection has gone on record with 1919 as the date when the tiara was made. French royal jewelry historian Vincent Meylan disagrees. In his 2009 book on the Boucheron archives, he covers the client relationship between Mrs. Greville and the jewelry firm. When discussing the catalogue of purchases that Maggie made from the firm, he writes, “En 1921, c’est un bandeau de diamants orné d’une émeraude de 93.70 carats”—”in 1921, it was a diamond bandeau adorned with a 93.70-carat emerald.”

Meylan certainly had access to the company’s archive while writing his book—the book also includes a black-and-white photograph of the tiara, which was the only known image of the piece until its reemergence nine years later—but it’s certainly possible that the Royal Collection was also able to gain access to those same records when researching the piece for their own records. The Royal Collection has also quibbled with some of Meylan’s other claims about the provenance of the Greville jewels, most notably the Diamond Peardrop Earrings.

Winston Blue Diamond

Harry Winston’s “The Blue” diamond, a 13.22ct Fancy vivid blue pear-shaped diamond, is the largest flawless Fancy vivid blue diamond in the world.
The blue diamond is a fancy colored stone with a boron element in its symmetrical balance. These stones are found in Argyle Mine in Australia, Cullinan Mine In South Africa, and Golconda Mine Of India. There are very few resources and mines for bringing out natural blue diamonds.

Few American success stories rival that of Harry Winston. Born Harry Weinstein, he came from humble roots—his parents were poor Jewish immigrants who left Ukraine around 1890 for New York, where they settled and started a small jewelry business.  His genius for spotting priceless gems emerged young. When Harry was twelve years old, he recognized a two-carat emerald in a pawn shop and bought it for 25 cents, selling it two days later for $800—a massive sum in the early 1900s. From that moment on, Harry became obsessed with gems, especially diamonds. A compact, unassuming man with no formal education, but unlimited drive and ambition, Harry Weinstein transformed himself into Harry Winston, the enigmatic figure who created the world’s most prestigious luxury brand. 
 
Harry Winston built his empire while the Depression raged, World War II reshaped the world, and America entered its post-war period of prosperity. In this riveting biography, readers get a bird’s eye view of the dangers of the diamond trade and the lengths men would go to get their hands on the best of the “rough.” There’s also a glimpse into the lives of the rich and famous, who clamored for Winston’s gems. Although he traveled the world doing business with kings, queens, and movie stars, Winston remained a devoted family man, whose chief wish was that his sons carry on the legacy he had built.
 
Harry’s older son Ronald Winston worked alongside his father for decades. After Harry’s death, Ron grew the company into the international brand that is still revered today. He ran it expertly, until he was forced to sell the company, due to his younger brother’s maligning litigation. This is the story of a family business that survived and thrived for more than a century, until it was undone by one, bitter family member.

Certified 2.6 Ctw No Oil Muzo Colombian Emerald & D VS1 Diamond Platinum Ring

An Exquisite Certified 2.6 Ctw No Oil Muzo Colombian Emerald & D VS1 Diamond Platinum Ring

The Center Stone is an Exceptional AGL Certified Natural 1.14 Ct Vivid Green Emerald that was mined in Muzo, Colombia & Has Not Been Oiled, Treated or Enhanced in Any Way. It Measures 8.1 x 5.7 mm & Checks All the Boxes with Phenomenal Color, Amazing Clarity, Precision Cutting & No Oil/No Treatment Whatsoever. 

The Side Stones are Exceptional Natural GIA Certified D-E Color VS1 Clarity Earth Mined Emerald Cut Diamonds that weigh 0.70 Ct Each & Have Not Been Treated or Enhanced in Any Way. They Measure 6.5 x 4.1 mm Each & Check All the Boxes with Outstanding Color (Both are Completely Colorless,) Amazing Clarity (both are 100% eye clean as well as super clean under 10x magnification,) & Beautiful Cutting/No Florescence. They are Both Crystal Clear, Super Lively Diamonds that are Bursting with Fire, Spark & Flash. 

Purchasing Details Here

C. Dunaigre Swiss Certified 4.9 Ctw Zambian Emerald and E VVS Diamond Platinum Ring

An Exquisite C. Dunaigre Swiss Certified 4.9 Ctw Zambian Emerald E VVS Diamond Platinum Ring

The Center Stone is an Exceptional C. Dunaigre Swiss Certified Natural 3.79 Ct Vivid Green Emerald that measures Approximately 10 x 8 mm, was Mined in Zambia & has not been treated or enhanced in any way other than Minor Cedar Oil Only (F1.) It Has Fantastic Color in Person, a Super Vibrant, Bright Glowing Green Hue with Vivid Saturation, a Medium Tone & Subtle Bluish Undertones we sometime see in the Finest Zambian Specimens. The Color is Bold, Electric & Perfectly Balanced (not too dark/not too light.) This Gorgeous Emerald has a Well Executed Emerald Step Cut with Truncated Corners, Beautiful Symmetry/Proportions & is a Very Reflective GEM. It Has Incredible Clarity for an Emerald & is Super Clean to the Eye with a Crystal Body void of any Cloudiness/Haziness that we see in the vast Majority of Emeralds on the market. It is a Super Lively Emerald that is Full of Brilliance, Fire, Spark & Flash making it Exceptional in the Market. It is a Brand New Emerald that has Never Been Set Before, is in Excellent Shape & Has a Beautiful, Buttery Smooth Finish/Polish. Overall, an Exceptional Investment Grade Emerald that Checks all the Boxes with Amazing Color, Clarity, Cutting & Size.

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